We headed off to the beach today after a good night sleep to try and surf some gnarly pounders (I regret nothing!). Ryan and I both know how to surf, so we had to spend most of our day at the beach teaching Sam how. There are some really nice waves here... but man, you can't imagine the rush of having those waves creep up on you, and your only option is to keep on shredding along or fall and get swept up like a bird in a hurricane. Man do I love surfing, it gives me a high like you wouldn't believe. Plus, were just on the edge of the best time to be here, because the trade winds down here are still blowing strong, creating some big waves. It's reached the rainy season, but that doesn't diminish our love of the sport.
Ryan
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